Modulus arms

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    • #76066 Responder
      Hietalahti

      Modulus arms
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      Download / Read Online Modulus arms
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      Modulus Arms claims the jig is the most universal because of the way the jig is designed to encompass the lower. Instead of sandwiching the lower between two heavy plates as the Easy Jig does the Modulus Arms jig builds a frame around the lower. This means the jig does not touch the lower on the sides of the magwell and can expand in the areas it does touch to accomodate wider lower features. There are two identical side plates, a buffer support, front support, rear support, depth gauge plate, top plate, drilling guide, fourteen short socket head cap screws, two long cap screws and one large cap screw. Note that the picture here is of what was sent for the Black Friday sale 2014 and differs from what is shown currently on their site. The new instruction manual reflects this new style jig. The drill and end mill set that is needed is the same as required by the Easy Jig. I have used it for 7075 lowers and have some trouble with that. I have also found the key to getting through without binding is getting the speed and pressure on the bit just right when using the drill press. It takes some experience but when you get it just right it works great. This is needed to clamp the jig down while routing out the lower. I the short cutting length end mill but have used this longer cutting length in the past. This longer cutting length can bite into the template if you are not careful but, with caution, this is the one you want to get. This is needed to drill out the bulk of the material in the fire control group pocket and to drill out the hole for the safety selector. This is used to set the drilling depth for the fire control group bulk material removal. This is used to drill the hammer and trigger pin holes. This is only used to drill the two holes for the trigger slot milling. This is used to tighten the stop collar to the drill bit. This is used to tighten the small template bolts. This is used to tighten the large rear support bolt. This is to lubricate and cool the cutting. I used cutting fluid I got from Ace Hardware just because it was convenient. This helps to highlight the inner edge of the template and to tape off the lower to protect it from chips if you are using the longer length end mill. A metal shaving in your eye will really ruin your day and maybe even more. And because no one wants to go deaf on the installment plan. This is useful for brushing metal shavings out of the jig and lower during and after the lower completion. For me this is a must have to clear out chips from the work area and the fire control group pocket after each pass with the end mill. This is my first gripe about this jig. Installing the front pivot pin is a bit of a pain even for an experienced builder. If the receiver needs to be anodized or painted after machining this pivot pin will need to be removed which is an even bigger pain. This is where I initially ran into problems with the universality of this jig. I received a second buffer support from Modulus Arms but it had the same problems with those lowers. I just received a third buffer support from Modulus Arms and I am happy to report that it does work with those four lowers and all of the other lowers I have. If you are able to easily thread the buffer support you can use two of the screws loosely threaded into the top and bottom buffer support screw holes to help turn the buffer support to just below the end of the receiver. After threading in the buffer support, and ensuring the three screw holes line up vertically, attach the rear support to the top two screw holes. Make sure to align the drilling guide with the angled cut in the guide aligned with the same angle to the back of the receiver. The two smaller template guides will be on top of this drilling guide as shown here. You can snug up the drilling guide screws and the four screws in the front and rear support pieces. Now attach the long top template, recessed holes up, to the four screw holes in the front and rear support pieces. For the side plates, begin by aligning the two side plates with the safety selector, hammer and trigger pin template holes in the correct spot. The plates are identical so just turn the plate 180 degrees if the holes are not aligned correctly. The completely flat sides face out. Insert the four cap screws into the top screw holes and loosely tighten. Then squeeze the two plates around the lower and tighten the four screws. Now you can take the two long screws and run them through the side plates. Both side plates are threaded so you will be threading these in for a while. You can snug these screws but do not crank on them. Now your jig is assembled and ready to begin the machining work. This is for the trigger slot and you will want to drill all of the way through the receiver. If you have a lower that already has a rear pocket machined you do not need to drill out any of these three holes. However you can drill them out if you want the typical rear pocket to fire control pocket openin filexlib.
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      Modulus arms service guide
      Modulus arms manuaalinen
      Modulus arms bedienungsanleitung
      Modulus arms manual
      Modulus arms handbok

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